COOP0003 
thank you so much this was extremely helpful. I was able to replace the lid switch myself. The relay cost $26 instead of a new washing machine. Excellent video.
allanpogi137 
thanks!!! same here it was the lid switch
pmattan59  
thank you so much. I would never figure out how to get in there and fixed that lid switch. Thanks you thank you
bagodonut1 
Thanks, Video was very helpful
debz1052 
This was the best and most helpful for me. Thanks!!
Quirkyxoxo 
I've got to give this a try because I just can't afford a repair guy right now.
jchoochee 
this video is the best, I have to try and fix the loud banging noise
Quirkyxoxo 
Hey, it worked! I wouldn't have been able to open it right if I hadn't watched this video. I bought a timer on ebay for $30 and put it in and the washer works like new again!! This video probably saved me $250 or more!! XD Thank you ApplianceAssistant! I hope you have good luck with yours too jchoochee. Peace :)
Goldwinger2739 
Very good video.excellent demostration.
marto880 
This is a great video to show what other sites explain in words. If they would put the 2 together.its much easier to understand. Thanks
binhpham15 
Awesome video. Opening up the washer is 90% of the work for me. Once the washer was opened up, I was able to remove the busted pump in 10 seconds! Without this video, I was thinking of lots of stupid ways to open it. Thanks very much.
moteasa 
THANK YOU!
I just had to remove the cover of my Estate (by Whirlpool) to find out why my washer wasn't draining or spinning. I found a baby sock stuck in the pump impeller. This instruction helped me greatly to get to the pump quickly!
michaelscottgray 
THANK YOU for posting this! I had to remove the cabinet to repair my water pump and couldn't find good directions anywhere else.
kmap71 
Thank you so very much for posting this. I took my washer apart, replaced the motor coupler, and got as far as putting the front of the washer back on and was stuck. Without this video and the help of my 13 yr old son, I may never have finished the job. THANK YOU!!!
fraser1025 
Thank you Appliance assistant. I've been searching for just this very information for about two weeks!!
Maytag Centennial has the two clips under the lid, plus I wasn't careful and broke the plastic clip that he warned me about. oops! But at least I can fix the washer.
wbenny 
this is a really help for all my customers who needs to repair it.
most think to come on the pump impellor is from the bottom side.  look this is the simple way to repair it an to work on all spares from these washers.  best regards and stay here.  thanks for this
busdriver254 
This Great, I was able to take it apart, but had a hell of a time getting the thing back together.

Removing the cabinet
 In this chapter I will be showing you how to remove the cabinet of a whirlpool built top loading washing machine.   Most repairs require the removal of the cabinet to access the internal components.  First look for two Phillips head screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console.  On many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see them there look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch.  If no screws can be seen, look for this clip style.  Move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top.  On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, so make sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back; there are large tabs on the base of the side cap that hook into the cabinet top, and a hinge system that will allow the console to hang in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch.  This is the newer style lid switch that is engaged by the hinge.  On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that will trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This style will plug in at the center rearr under the console.  Now we need to remove the cabinet mounting clips, these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we have removed the mounting clips.  Grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid.  Tilt the cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.   Now you will be able to better see and access the internal workings of your washer, and better diagnose the problem you are experiencing.   
Now let’s look at how to reinstall the cabinet.  The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer, there is a small step down to the side frame so that the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front, and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch, or your washer will not work properly.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  Congratulations! You’re done.
Motor & motor coupling
  This is the sound of a broken motor coupling, one of the most common problems on this style of washer.  In this chapter we will look at the motor and motor coupling.   In order to access the motor and motor coupling you will need to remove the cabinet. First look for two Phillips head screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console, as you can see here.  On many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see the screws at the front, look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threaded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch.  If no screws can be seen look for this clip style.  Move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top.  On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, this switch senses that the lid is closed when a small bar that is an extension of the hinge pushes the black portion to the switch to the rear; closing the circuit, and telling the timer that it’s safe to perform agitation or spin.   Be sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  Push that sloped metal clip to release the console. After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back.  As you can see there is a hinge system there that will keep it in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch.  This is the newer style lid switch that engages of the lid hinge.  On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This stile will plug into the rear center of the cabinet top.  Now we need to remove the cabinet mounting clips, these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine releasing them from the cabinet top.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed the mounting clips.  Grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid.  Tilt the cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.
To access the motor coupling we first will need to remove the pump from the motor.  Use a flat head screwdriver to lift the mounting clips off of the pump.  Rotate the clip 90 degrees and slide them out of the motor slots.  As you can see they insert into the motor and pivot anchoring the pump to the motor.  Once you have those clips removed; assuming the pump is not rusted onto the motor shaft, it should just slide off.  If the pump is rusted to the motor you might want to look at the pump chapter for pump replacement.  It isn’t necessary to completely remove the pump to get to the motor coupling, but it will make the process slightly easier.  If you do disconnect the pump hoses, this would be a good time to have a pan or some towels ready. There will usually be water remaining in the base of the tub and the drain line.  If your tub is full of water, first check your lid switch; also consider where all that water will go when you disconnect the hose to the pump.  You may be able to pinch off the hose from the tub while you work on the coupling.  Next we will remove the motor.  The motor is held to the transmission with the same kind of clips used on the pump; however these clips will have a screw passing through them to ensure that the clips remain secure.  These screws are either 1/4” or 5/16” and remove counter clockwise.  Unplug the wire harness attached to the motor.   Pop the bottom clip off first and remove it from the plate. The top clip will hold the motor in place while you remove the lower clip and make the removal of the motor nice and smooth.  Before you remove the top clip be sure to have the motor supported. You can also remove the motor and leave the pump attached if you are having problems removing the pump from the motor.  Now we can see the motor coupling.  The coupling is made up of three parts, a plastic side that mounts to the motor another that attaches to the trany, and a rubber center that ties the two halves together.  Some older models may look slightly different but this new style will replace all past designs.  Most commonly the shaft of the motor or trany when over loaded will crack the coupling something like this.  Older styles would break the pins off or stretch the rubber connection ring.  What I will usually tell people is that it is ok to fill the washer up but you don’t want to pack the clothes down around the agitator, that’s what will cause this to break, or worse it may damage the transmission or clutch.  If the coupling is intact; the next most likely cause of similar symptoms is the clutch or transmission. Check out the drive system chapter for a closer look at this system.
So now we have this broken motor coupling installed, I’m going to trick the pressure switch into thinking the tub is full of water.  As you can see, with this partial break the washer will still agitate; however when I advance the cycle to spin, the drive system reverses direction applying more pressure on the coupling and it starts to slip within the coupling.  Fortunately that sound is very distinct, so if you hear that sound you have a broken motor coupling.  Now let’s learn how to replace it.  Slip a screw driver behind the motor coupling and use leverage to rock it off the motor and transmission shafts.  Use caution in doing this try not to put to much pressure on the motor just a small rocking motion till it comes free.  To reinstall the new coupling use the butt of your nut driver using light to medium strength taps.  You need to be careful not to strike the transmission with to much force, this isn’t too much of danger just be mindful of it.  This replacement motor coupling has a new metal reinforcement ring that strengthens the part of the coupling that is most likely to break.  With this new style coupling it is more important than ever that the washer not be over loaded.  Instead of the coupling breaking it will be more likely that you will have a problem with the clutch or transmission; as I mentioned before, a much more expensive part to replace.  To reinstall the motor position the plug terminal to the right of the motor, position the coupling in the twelve o’clock position to match the position of the coupling side on the transmission, and position all of the rubber grommets that dampen the vibration from the motor onto the motor mounting plate. This is the tricky part so take your time.  Assuming your coupling is lined up set the two lower pins on the back of the motor into the dampening grommets on the motor mounting plate and tip the motor up into position.  I’ve done this a few times so if you don’t get it at first keep trying you’ll get it.  Hold the motor up and reinstall the top clip first.  Insert it vertically and rotate it 90 degrees, once that’s snapped into place the motor will stay in position making it simple to install the lower clip. 
 Reinstall the clip screws you removed, reinstall your pump.  A faulty motor can be a difficult thing to correctly diagnose.  In most cases its best to check the motor with a volt meter set to 120 volts ac and measure if the motor is receiving the proper amount of electricity when it should be running.  Determine; with your models wiring diagram, what color wire is supplying power to the motor. Disconnect your pump to eliminate it as a cause. Connect one meter lead to this contact point and the other connects to any white wire connection.  If the motor is receiving 120 volts ac and is dead, or humming and not moving it would be fairly safe to say you are in need of a new motor. Another common symptom is when the washer runs for a short time and stops for a rest before it will work again.  This symptom would be caused by a motor over heating and tripping the thermal cut off safety.  I’m bypassing the lid switch to show you a properly functioning spin cycle.  If you use this teqniqe be sure you’re clear of all moving components and exposed wires.  The first part of the drain spin will only run the pump to clear excess water weight. When I release the lid switch once it simulates an automatic pause in the timer that allows the transmission to shift into spin.  Now that we’ve made our repair lets reinstall the cabinet. 
The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer, there is a small step down to the side frame so the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place. If you removed screws reinstall them.  Congratulations! You’re done.
Whirlpool washer agitator
In this chapter we will be looking at the agitator; how it functions, how it can fail, and how you can repair it.  The agitator; along with water and soap is responsible for the cleaning action on your clothing so it’s pretty important that it be working properly.  Older models will allow the washer to agitate with the lid open; however, on newer models the lid switch must be closed for the washer to agitate.   I am bypassing the lid switch so I can show you a normal agitation motion.  Notice that the agitator is moving in only one direction.  Inside the agitator is a ratchet assembly.  As you can see, there are small components called agitator dogs that flip in and out to keep the top of the agitator from turning counter clock wise.  The small teeth on the outer edge of these dogs engage against the inner wall of the agitator acting as a brake.  These teeth can be warn smooth; usually caused by overloading, keeping the top portion of the agitator from moving properly under the resistance of your clothing in the tub.
In order to access this agitator ratchet assembly you are going to need to remove the top of the agitator.  This model has only a cap; however, some models have a fabric softener dispenser. They remove the same way; grasp the side of the cap and pull strait up.  Once you have removed the cap you may see a seal.  This barrier protects the dog assembly from fabric softener gumming up the system and keeping the dogs from moving in and our easily.  The shaft that the comes through the bottom of the outer tub drives the base of the agitator in the counter clockwise motion, because of the dogs the top moves with it; however,  during the pause portion of the stroke the dogs retract in and allow the agitator top to move freely clockwise.  
Not very common but on some Kenmore brand whirlpool built washers; they have used this ½ inch socket nut, instead of the 7/16 inch nut used on most machines, to attach the agitator to the drive shaft, in order to remove this nut, insert a ½ socket driver into it and rotate counter clockwise. This model will not have the seal because it dose not have the fabric softer dispenser as an option. 
 On most models you will need a 7/16 inch socket driver and some form of an extension.  Hold the base of the agitator to keep it from turning and rotate the bolt counterclockwise.  The extension is necessary. Because as you can see the bolt is deep in the agitator and you will need to have your hands above it to be able to break the bolt loose.  You may find a ratchet helpful.  Once you have removed that 7/16” bolt you will need to reach down inside the tub, grab the lower plate of the agitator and pull strait up off of the drive shaft.  You might find it helpful to wiggle it slightly from side to side as you pull.  You can see were the drive shaft inserts into the agitator and the drive shaft coming up from the transmission.  
The bottom portion of the agitator drives directly from the drive shaft, so it will turn even if the teeth of these dogs become worn down.  However, the top portion will not be able to move so the washing action is more than cut in half.  In order to replace these agitator dogs, set the agitator on the ground and step on the sides of the base, pulling the top portion away from the lower portion.  There are two tabs that clip the base agitator to the top section.  Flip the top section over and balance the ratchet assembly on your hand.  
This is the heart of the agitator. The dogs should be rough on the outer edge and move in and out freely.  This particular model has a plastic retainer clip that keeps the dogs in place and makes reinstallation easier.  The teeth on the dogs engage the inner wall of the agitator here.  They will retract for the counter clockwise motion and flip out engage the wall when I try to turn clockwise.  You can tell that the dogs need to be replaced without removing the agitator and physically looking at them, if you can turn agitator in both directions while it is installed in the washer.  
Notice the two U shaped holes that receive the tabs on the lower portion of the agitator.  Hopefully you have this plastic ring but assuming the worst we will be showing you how to install the dogs without this retainer clip.  First remove this ring if you have it, exposing were the dogs slip into place.  Again they should be clean and move in and out freely.  Lift them from their circular slots. And replace all four as a set.  If you have that retainer ring you can slide that back on.  There are small digits on the ring that slide into grooves on the ratchet assembly insuring it is positioned properly.
Assuming you don’t have that clip you will want to use gravity to keep the new dogs in their beds. Look for the side that has those teeth on the inner wall.  Balance the ratchet assembly on your hand and lower the agitator over it.  Once it has rested against the middle divider keep pressure on it to keep the dogs sandwiched in place.  If you allow it to lift the dogs will all fall out of place, and need to be reinstalled.  On this lower portion the two molded tabs (here and here) need to line up with the two u shaped holes on the ratchet assembly.  This is a Bering providing protection from friction between the upper and lower parts of the agitator.  Line up those tabs, and remember to keep pressure on those dogs not allowing them to lift and fall out of position. These are properly installed tabs, and this is a healthy agitator.
To reinstall the assembled agitator, press the agitator down fully onto the drive shaft.  Remember that if you don’t have that retainer clip you need to keep preshure with your hand down on the dog assembly.  Reinstall your attaching nut, eather 7/16” or the ½” socket style.  This should be fairly tight.  When you are reinserting the seal; it is helpful to lubricate the rubber o-ring with a small amount of oil or water.  This will alow the o-ring to slip into place without rolling out of position from friction with the inner wall of the agitator.  Next pop your cap, or fabric softener dispenser back in place, and your back in business.
The lid switch
In this chapter we will be looking at the lid switch.  How it works, how it can break and how you can fix it.   In order to access the lid switch plug you will need to get under the console.  Look for two Phillips head screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console.  As you can see here, on many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see them there look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threaded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch.  If no screws can be seen look for this clip style.  Move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top.  On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, this switch senses that the lid is closed when a small bar that is an extension of the hinge pushes the black portion to the switch to the rear; closing the circuit, and telling the timer that it’s safe to perform agitation or spin.   Be sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  Push that sloped metal clip to release the console.  After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back.  As you can see there is a hinge system there that will keep it in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch. On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This style will plug into the rear center of the cabinet top.  The switch can be checked in a number of ways.  First open the lid slightly and let it close again.  Listen for a small clicking noise.  If you don’t hear it the switch is not being engaged for some reason.  A few things need to happen for the washer to agitate or spin.  First the washer will fill with water and trip the pressure switch.  On some older models the washer will now agitate; however, on newer models the lid must also be closed to allow safe agitation.  The lid switch is connected with 3 wires the white neutral the green ground, and the colored power lead.  Power flows into the switch through the power wire and if it’s closed flows out through the neutral.   Let’s look at how this system of switches works. (Explain the wire diagram)  First I will bow on the pressure hose, tripping the switch telling the washer it is full of water.  When I open the lid switch the washer thinks I’ve opened the lid and it stops agitating.  Next I will advance the washer to the drain spin portion of the cycle.  If the lid switch is closed the washer will first drain the majority of the water out of the tub to reduce the weight that it needs to spin.  When I release the switch once it simulates a pause that is built into the timer to allow the washer to shift the drive system to spin the tub.  The tub spins at 500 revolutions per minute so be certain you are clear of any moving parts before you perform this test.  If your washer fills with water and then stops dead, or if it fills and agitates and then stops dead, the lid switch is the most likely cause.  The most accurate way to test the switch is with a volt meter.  If you have one move the dial to the omega symbol that means ohms.  This setting measures the ability for power to flow through a particular part or circuit.  Test the two wire terminals that were making contact with the wire colors other than green.  With the lid closed the meter should give you the same reading as if you were touching the test leads together.  This is called a closed circuit. If you have the hinge activated style the switch can be removed from the top and replaced without removing the cabinet.  Simply lift the lid to disengage the switch and replace.  Also the older style lid switch can be tested without removing the cabinet.  From this terminal at the top; which is under the console, attach your meter and open and close the lid.  The reading you see with the lid closed should be the same as if you were touching the meter leads together.  The paddle style switch will commonly break at the point were the two Phillips mounting screws attach the switch to the cabinet top, as you can see here in this photograph.  This switch will still work if manually tripped; however, it is not attached to the top so the lid pin actuator will move the entire switch not just the paddle.  Some times the hinge bar needs to be bent slightly to make better contact with the switch, also check to make sure that the two hinge screws that attach the hinge to the lid are tightened.  To bend the hinge or replace the older plunger style lid switch we need to remove the cabinet.  To do this, remove the cabinet mounting clips; these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed the mounting clips.  Grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid.  Tilt the cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.   Now you will be able to access the inside of the cabinet and see clearly what is the matter with your switch. You will need to have your model number ready when you call the parts dealer to get the correct switch style and length for your model.  If you are replacing the older style lid switch; with the lid plunger, begin by removing the two Phillips head screws that attach the switch to the cabinet top.  Next, from inside the cabinet, remove the 5/16” ground wire, free the harness from all clips holding it to the top, and lastly release the small tabs that secure the plug terminal into place. 
Now let’s learn how to reinstall the cabinet.  The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer, there is a small step down to the side frame so the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place. If you removed screws reinstall them.  Congratulations! You’re done.
The pump

In this chapter we will be looking at the pump of a whirlpool built top load washing machine.  The pump is responsible for removing the dirty water from your washer, so if that’s important to you it needs to be working properly.  To access the pump you will need to remove the cabinet.  First look for two Phillips head screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console.  As you can see here, on many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see them there look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threaded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch.  If no screws can be seen look for this clip style, move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top. On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, so make sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back.  There are two large tabs on the end cap that hook into the washer top, and a hinge system that will keep it in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch.  This is the newer style lid switch that engages of the lid hinge.  On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This stile will plug into the rear center under the console.  Now we need to remove the cabinet mounting clips, these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver toward the rear of the machine.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed the mounting clips. Open the lid and grab hold of the front of the cabinet.  Tilt the top of cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.  Now we can get to work on that pump.   The motor will rotate the pump in the clockwise direction for the drain portion of the cycle, and counter clockwise for the agitation portion forcing the water back into the tub.  The pump is one of the more common causes of a leak on this style of washer.  You will want to look for water or rust marks deposited on the pump pointing the way to the origin of the leak. This photo shows a pump that has leaked from the pump shaft.  When an item enters the pump; the impeller, which is a paddle wheel that moves the water can move the object at high speeds causing the outer housing to be cut or melt.  This picture is an example of a pump that has been cut from the inside.  Small clothing items such as baby socks can find their way into the pump and can at times jam the pump completely.  Because the pump is unable to turn and it is directly attached to the motor the motor will hum when it would be trying to agitate or drain.  In this case the pump can just be cleared of the object and reinstalled; however, if it is allowed to operate this way for any amount of time it may cause the motor to over heat and go bad. Along with small socks; thing such as, coins, screws, braw under wires for example, are common items that can stray into the pump.  So use a lingerie bag for all loose items and be sure to check your pockets.  I’m going to put a coin in this pump up so you can hear how it sounds with a object inside.  Its hard to hear; if you don’t fix washers for a living, but there is a slightly higher pitch there than a pump that is clear of debris. If you are dealing with a leak and the pump seems to be innocent, look for sighs of water leaking elsewhere such as punctured hoses or ones nibbled on by our neighbor the rat. It’s hard to discern if you don’t fix washers for a living, but there is a slightly higher pitch there than a pump that is clear of debris.   
So assuming that you do need to swap your pump I’m going to show you how.  First use a screwdriver to pop the pump mounting clips free.  It’s helpful to completely remove the clips from the motor were they anchor.  These simply rotate 90 degrees and pull strait out from the motor slots.  The end of the clip is a “T” shape that inserts and rotates locking the pump into place.  With these removed the pump should easily separate from the motor.  If the pump has been leaking onto the motor shaft, the motor shaft will tend to swell with rust, fusing the pump to the motor.  If the pump dose not separate from the motor with ease; remove the motor with the pump attached.  
This style pump is commonly used on kitchen aid models.  As you can see there is a check valve on the pump outlet to prevent the dirty water in the drain line from reentering the washer.  This is usually a more expensive pump; if you would like to change it to the less expensive style simply change the drain line to the smaller diameter hose.   Before you can change the pump you need to disconnect the hoses that are attached to it.  This would be a good time to have a pan or some towels ready, there will usually be water remaining in the base of the tub and the drain line.  If your tub is full of water check your lid switch, also consider were that water will go when you disconnect the hose to the pump.  You may be able to pinch off the hose from the tub while you work on the pump.  Now let’s show you how to pull the motor so we can free that stuck pump.  Remove the screws that pass through the motor mounting clips.  Pop the clips loose the same way you did the pump.  It’s much easier if you remove the lower clip first.  Once you have your motor free strike the pump from behind with the butt of your screwdriver and a hammer.  Once the pump is off the motor, you will want to clean the majority of the rust off of the motor shaft.  You can use your flat head screwdriver to scrap off any loose rust.  When you are doing this be careful not to apply to much downward pressure on the motor shaft, pounding down on the shaft can damage the motor.  Once the shaft is for the most part clean, slide your new pump into place; or if you removed the motor, reinstall the motor first.  Then attach the pump.  I will bypass the lid switch to demonstrate a normal drain and spin function.  If you use this technique to help trouble shoot or to test for leaks use extreme caution, fast moving parts are exposed and can obviously cause injury.  Once the weight from the water has been drained out I will release the lid switch to simulate a quick pause in the timer that would occur automatically to allow the motor to change direction and spin the inner tub.  At top speed the inner tub should be rotating at 500 revolutions per minute, to squeeze the water out of the clothing that has been washed.  If the tub is entering into the spin cycle and the water has been completely drained but the clothing is still soaked then it should be the clutch/ break assembly is the most likely cause, and is examined more clearly in the drive system chapter.  
So now that you’ve made your repair lets reinstall the cabinet.  The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer, there is a small step down to the side frame so the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch. Or your washer will not work properly.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place. If you removed screws reinstall them.  Congratulations! You’re done.
The water valve
In this chapter we will be looking at the water valve of a whirlpool built top loading washing machine.  How it works, how it can malfunction, and what you need to do to replace it.  In order to access the water valve you’re going to need to remove of the cabinet.  First look for two Phillips screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console.  As you can see here, on many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see them there look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threaded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch, if no screws can be seen look for this clip style.  Move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top.  On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, so make sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back.  As you can see there is a hinge system there that will keep it in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch.  This is the newer style lid switch that engages of the hinge.  On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This stile will plug into the rear center of the cabinet top.  Now we nee to remove the cabinet mounting clips, these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed the mounting clips.  Grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid.  Tilt the cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.   Now we can take a closer look at the fill valve Water valves consist of two magnetic solenoids, one for hot and one for cold.  A solenoid is temporary magnet.  When the solenoid is supplied with 120 volts it becomes a magnet and pulls an internal plunger up to allowing the water to flow through the valve and into the tub of the washer.  The valve is wired directly to the temperature switch, and the water level switch.  Depending on what is selected at the temperature switch, the valve will be supplied power to the appropriate solenoid.  Cold will open only the cold half of the valve, hot would open only the hot side and warm will supply power to both the cold and the hot. Some models also have a thermostat; that can interrupt the flow of power to the solenoids controlling temperature.
I highly recommend purchasing a volt meter if you don’t own one.  We can use this to safely see if the valves are receveving the power they need to open.  We set our meter to the first scale higher than the voltage we want to measure, in this case 120 volts AC, if you set the meter below the amount intended to be measured, you will likely damage you meter.   
The tub is empty so the water level switch is closed allowing power to flow through, our washer is set to fill with hot, and the timer is pulled out at the beginning of our cycle were the washer would fill.  So I will contact the two wire meter leads to the hot water valve, one to the colored power supply line and one to the white neutral line.  I should measure something close to 120 volts.  If I am drastically over or under then there is likely a problem with your house wiring.  If you are getting a very low reading and you have verified all the things I listed before; the pressure switch, the temperature setting, and the timer cycle setting, then you might need to checkout the under the console chapter.  If the valve seems to be receiving power but is not opening fully, it’s likely bad internally and needs to be replaced.  Check the valve screens for debris first; if they are mostly clean then the plunger of the valve is probably bound up, not opening fully and needs to be replaced.  
  To replace the valve, unplug the washer, remove all wire plugs, remove any mounting screws, raise the valve from its cradle, then remove the tub supply hose.  Some new valves come with a plate that can be installed on the valve to make it compatible with many models of washers produced over the years.  Reinstall the new valve using your trusty nut driver.  The wire terminals are usually color coded and fool proof, red for hot and white for cold.  Reattach the tub supply line and all your hoses.  You might want to check and see if the washer will fill properly before reinstalling the cabinet.
  To  reinstall the cabinet.  The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer, there is a small step down to the side frame so the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place. If you removed screws reinstall them.  Congratulations! You’re done.
Under the console
In this chapter we will be taking a look at the timer, the temperature switch, and the water level switch.  We will remove the cabinet to see better how the control relates with the internal components.  First look for two Phillips head screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console.  As you can see here, on many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see them there look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threaded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch, if no screws can be seen look for this clip style.  Move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top.  On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, so make sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back.  As you can see there is a hinge system there that will keep it in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch.  This is the newer style lid switch that engages of the hinge.  On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This stile will plug into the rear center of the cabinet top.  Now we nee to remove the cabinet mounting clips, these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed the mounting clips.  Grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid.  Tilt the cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.   Now you will be able to better see and access the internal workings of your washer.    
First we will look at the timer. This is a newer style timer with the knob held on by a clip allowing the knob to spin freely in both directions without unthreading.  To remove this timer, push the knob in and look to the back of the timer exactly opposite the knobs location.  We are looking for a small plastic pin, with my pick I’m going to pull this pin about a quarter of an inch; you can also use a small screwdriver.  Once this pin is pulled out of the knobs shaft the knob can be pulled off.  The two halves of the shaft expand when the pin is in place holding the knob in place with the pin is slid out they can contract inward, releasing the knob, unbroken.  Next we pop off the indicator disk; this exposes a 3/16” screw.  Remove the screw with your nut driver; now from the back, look for a tab on the timer.  This tab needs to be lifted allowing the timer to slide out of the console frame.  There is a clip on the wiring harness, which needs to be lifted to unplug it.  
The timer is not a repairable part so don’t take it apart trying to fix it, a mistake could lead to arcing and an electrical fire.  But so you can understand how it works lets rip it apart.  The timer is made up of contact bars a cam, kind of like a player piano, and a motor.  The internal motor rotates the cam causing the contact bars to raise and lower, opening and closing contacts that send power to each part of your washer at the correct time.  The gear system determines the speed that the cam will turn.  The symptoms of a bad timer would be:  sticking on one particular part of the cycle, Power not being supplied to a particular component when it should be operating, or an electrical arcing sound or smell. 
This is an older style timer, the knob is threaded on.  To replace this style timer all the steps are the same; however to remove the knob, push it in, hold the indicator disk and rotate the top counter clockwise.  The basic mechanics have not changed. There are grooves on all washer timers that like a puzzle piece can only allow the indicator disk to go on one way.  This ensures that the washer will point at the correct portion of the cycle.
Next we will look at the temperature switch.  The temperature switch is the control center for the water valve.  120 volts is supplied to it by the timer; through the water level switch, and routs power to the appropriate valve solenoid allowing it to open.  In order for power to pass through to the water valve the water level switch must sense that the tub needs water.  (wiring diagram explained) This part is rare to fail but in the event you need to replace it, I’ll show you how.  Pull the knob off the shaft, next lift the side mounting tab free it’s helpful to use a flathead screwdriver or in my case a dental hook.  Rotate the switch a quarter turn to free it from the mounting plate.  There is a square cut out that receives the switch, insert the new switch at the same angle and twist clockwise, locking it into place.
There are a few things that need to happen for a newer style washer to agitate.  Older models would perform the agitation portion of the cycle with the lid open; however, on newer models whirlpool has eliminated this for safety.  Power flows through the closed lid switch telling the washer that it is safe to agitate or spin depending on what part of the cycle the timer is set to perform.  I’m going to be doing a few things here to demonstrate how the water level; also named the pressure switch, functions.  First I will set the washer to start the cycle and fill. The switch senses that the tub is empty so it sends power through the temperature switch to the valve.  When I apply pressure to the switch by blowing on this hose, the washer thinks that it is full and will agitate if the lid switch is closed and says it’s safe to proceed.   This model has three settings; small, medium, and super.  Your model may have more or less sensitivity settings but the function is the same.  The hose that I was blowing on earlier attaches at the bottom of the tub, as the water level rises in the tub the pressure in this hose will increase until the diaphragm within the switch opens the switch stopping the flow of power to the water valve.  Pressure flexes that internal diaphragm and opens and closes the circuit.  If this switch were to fail or the hose be pinched, punctured, or eaten by a rodent the switch cannot sense the water level in the tub and will continue to fill and overflow.  If you have determined that you need to replace this switch, it can be removed in the same way as the temperature switch.  The mounting tab is a little harder to reach so you will need to lift it with a tool of some kind.  Rotate counter clockwise one quarter turn and remove.  The pin inserts into the small hole to the right of the square mount that mirrors the switch. If we remove the hose we can trick the machine into thinking that the tub is full by blowing on this port.  This can help to isolate if the problem is with the switch or some small hole or obstruction within the hose attached to the tub.  The plug that attaches to the switch is shaped in such a way that it can only be inserted in the correct direction.  When reattaching the hose give it a little tug to tighten similar to a finger cuff. 
  Now let’s learn how to reinstall the cabinet.  The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer, there is a small step down to the side frame so the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place. If you removed screws reinstall them.  Congratulations! You’re done.
The drive system
In this chapter I will be showing you how to remove the cabinet of a whirlpool built top loading washing machine.   Most repairs require the removal of the cabinet to access the internal components.  First look for two Phillips head screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console.  As you can see here, on many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see them there look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threaded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch, if no screws can be seen look for this clip style.  Move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top. On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, so make sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back.  As you can see there is a hinge system there that will keep it in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch.  This is the newer style lid switch that engages of the hinge.  On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This stile will plug into the rear center of the cabinet top.  Now we nee to remove the cabinet mounting clips, these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed the mounting clips, grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid.  Tilt the cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.   
Now you will be able to better see and access the internal workings of your washer, and better diagnose the problem you are experiencing.  
To access the drive system we will first remove the pump. Use a screwdriver to pop the pump mounting clips free.  It’s helpful to completely remove the clips from the motor were they anchor.  These simply rotate 90 degrees and pull strait out. Once you have those clips removed; disconnect the pump hoses, this would be a good time to have a pan or some towels ready. There will usually be water remaining in the base of the tub and the drain line.  If your tub is full of water check your lid switch, the tub will need to be empty of water to work on the drive system.  The pump should easily separate from the motor.  If the pump has been leaking onto the motor shaft, the motor shaft will tend to swell with rust, fusing the pump to the motor.  If the pump dose not separate from the motor with ease; remove the motor with the pump attached, you may also want to look at the pump chapter to solve you leaking pump issue.  Next remove the motor, it will be held in place by the same kind of clips used on the pump but with either a ¼ or 5/16 inch screw passing through them to keep the motor secure.  Now we will remove the agitator.  Remove the top cap or the agitator; you may also have a fabric softener dispenser here, they remove the same way, grab the side lip and pull strait up.  Inside the agitator there is a seal to protect the agitator ratcheting system from becoming gummed up with fabric softener.    Not very common but on some Kenmore brand whirlpool built washers; they have used this ½ inch socket nut, instead of the 7/16 inch nut used on most machines, to attach the agitator to the drive shaft.  In order to remove this nut, insert a ½ socket driver into it and rotate counter clockwise.  There is a spring below this nut so you will now when it is free. This model will not have the seal because it dose not have the fabric softer cap as an option. 
 On most models you will need a 7/16” socket driver and some form of an extension.  Hold the base of the agitator to keep it from turning and rotate the bolt counterclockwise.  The extension is necessary. Because as you can see the bolt is deep in the agitator and you will need to have your hands above it to be able to break the bolt loose.  You may find a ratchet helpful.  Once you have removed that 7/16” bolt you will need to reach down inside the tub, grab the lower plate of the agitator and pull strait up off of the drive shaft.  You might find it helpful to wiggle it slightly from side to side as you pull. You can see the receiver there inside the agitator, and this is the drive shaft coming up from the transmission. To remove tub ring press down on each of the side clips and pull.  There is a seal on the inside of this ring to keep splashing and small amounts of water within the outer tub.  This is called a spanner wrench and is necessary if you are going to replace the inner tub or any part of the main drive system. A spanner wrench is the one specialty tool needed to repair this washer. There are four pins that insert down onto four notches in the spanner tub ring.  We use the wrench to grasp the tub nut and hammer in the counter clockwise direction to remove it.  Be careful not to hit the inner tub with your hammer or the porcelain coating may chip and allow rusting. Completely remove the spanner ring and remove the tub by lifting it off of the hub that the spanner ring was attached to.  If the tub is rusted to the hub press down quickly on the outer rim of the tub at several points to free it.  Be cautious not to break your fill spout while lifting this free.  The hub is the part that holds the inner tub to the drive tube.  Remove the hub from the drive tube by striking it from bellow.  As you can see there are two notches that line up with two tabs on the drive tube.  These notches should be fixed in place with the drive tube; we will take a closer look at the hub in a few minutes. 
Now from the bottom of the washer we will remove the transmission.  Remove the three half inch bolts that attach the transmission to the washer frame.  These machines have a lot of sharp edges so it’s a good idea to use some kind of extension to your ratchet to keep your hands out of harms way.  Remove the wire harness from the side mount by squeezing the back of the clip.  Now pull the transmission strait out from the drive tube.  If you are pulling strait it should slide out fairly easily.  This is the clutch; we will look more closely at that in a moment. Next we will look at the break and drive tube.  The break will release from the side walls when it if rotating counter clockwise, which is the direction for spin. When the drive is moving clockwise for the agitation stroke, the disk will expand holding the inner tub from movement.  To remove the drive tube, grasp the brake assembly and pull while rotating counter clockwise to release the pads from the side wall.  Now we can see how the drive system of the washer functions within the washer.  The drive tube slides over the drive shaft engaging the clutch with the break lever.  The transmission controls the inner tub through this clutch.  This is commonly the cause if the washer is not spinning at full speed and is leaving a large amount of water in the clothing at the end of the cycle.  The pads can become warn down and begin to slip against the clutch wall instead transferring the energy on to the inner tub for spin.  Sometimes oil leaking from the transmission will lubricate the clutch pads and also allow slipping to occur and slow spinning.  To replace the clutch pimply compress the clutch spring with a pair of pliers and remove it from the clutch housing, usually this housing wont need to be replaced unless you can see or feel damage or scaring.  There are three points of contact on this new clutch.  Older washers used a full ring of pad and were highly unlikely to ever need replacement; however, this new style is fairly common to need replacement; even more so now with the new metal reinforced motor coupling.  This is the next point of weakness.  To reinstall; compress the clutch ring and slide it back into place, it should be slid into the housing as far as it will go.
Now back to the drive tube and hub.  The hub rests on top of the drive tube and is kept in alignment with two notches that lock the hub in place preventing slip. Over time slipping during spin and breaking will cause these notches to become ground down and allow the tub to hop or bump to a stop whenever the break is activated, such at a loud thumping noise when the lid is opened.  I wanted to show you the relationship within the drive components, you don’t need to pull the transmission to replace the hub, simply pull the inner tub and replace.
When you receive your new transmission, you will need to swap a few parts over from your old one.  First the motor mounting plate, remove the plate by removing the two half inch bolts that attach it with your ratchet. The new transmission will usually come with half of the motor coupling preinstalled.  You will also need to remove the clutch.  The clutch is a separate part and will not come installed on you shiny new transmission.  First remove the spacer disk that covers the clutch mounting clips.  Next wedge a screwdriver into the first clip and again use leverage to pull the clip out of the drive shaft slots.  Lastly we will remove this ring clip that attaches the clutch to the transmission.  Insert your screwdriver under the end of the clip and work it out from under the last of the four tabs.  Now you will be able to remove the clutch and swap it over. 
Now we will reinstall the clutch clip.  First side the ring back down the drive shaft and insert the bent end into the hole on the clutch plate. First slide the ring under the first two tabs from the transmission, and then use a pair of pliers to push the clip under the remaining tabs into position.  Be careful not to let the curved end rise out of the hole.  That’s going to keep the clutch attached to the transmission.  Don’t pull on this plate too hard because you can actually pull one of the transmission gears out through the top and rupture the seal.  Next we will reinstall the side clip by sliding it into the two grooves on the side of the drive shaft.  Once you have the clip lined up use your pliers to squeeze the clip back into place.  It’ very important to reinstall the spacer ring over the clutch clip, or the break arm will break off the first time the washer runs a cycle.  Reinstall the motor mounting plate on to your new transmission, and now you are ready for reinstallation.  The motor mounting plate should be facing up toward the front of the washer.  The motor coupling is the part that transfers power from the motor to the drive system; it is a common part to fail.  The motor and motor coupling chapter looks at this part in greater detail.  To reinstall the motor position the plug terminal to the right of the motor, position the coupling in the twelve o’clock position to match the position of the coupling side on the transmission, and position all of the rubber grommets that dampen the vibration from the motor onto the motor mounting plate. This is the tricky part so take your time.  Assuming your coupling is lined up set the two lower pins on the back of the motor into the dampening grommets on the motor mounting plate and tip the motor up into position.  I’ve done this a few times so if you don’t get it at first keep trying you’ll get it.  Hold the motor up and reinstall the top clip first.  Insert it vertically and rotate it 90 degrees, once that’s snapped into place the motor will stay in position making it simple to install the lower clip. 
 Reinstall the clip screws you removed, reinstall your pump.    When you are reinstalling the tub nut you will need to hammer it fairly tight you don’t want the tub to be slipping during the break action.  Now that you have made your repair lets reinstall the cabinet.
.  The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer; there is a small step down to the side frame so that the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front, and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch, or your washer will not work properly.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  Congratulations! You’re done.
Tub and suspension
In this chapter we will be examining the tub and suspension system of a whirlpool built top loading washing machine.   Most repairs require the removal of the cabinet to access the internal components.  First look for two Phillips head screws; on some models they will be located on front left and right of the control console.  As you can see here, on many Kenmore brand washers these screws are covered by cap that can be removed simply by pulling the top of the cap toward the front of the washer.  If you don’t see them there look at the rear of the console.  The screws pass through the end cap and attach the control panel to the cabinet top.  The ends of these screws are not threaded so it’s helpful to insert your finger under the screw head and lift them out the last 1/8 inch.  If no screws can be seen, look for this clip style.  Move the tub to the side so you can reach under the console.  Feel for a clip.  This clip needs to be pushed toward the rear of the washer to release it from the cabinet top.  On the left side the mounting clip is located next to this new hinge activated lid switch, so make sure that you don’t put pressure on this switch, it’s constructed of plastic and if pressed will break easily.  After you have your screws removed or your clip released, pull the control panel slightly forward and allow it to tip back; there are large tabs on the base of the side cap that hook into the cabinet top, and a hinge system that will allow the console to hang in place.  Next you need to unplug the lid switch.  This is the newer style lid switch that is engaged by the hinge.  On some models as shone here, the lid has a plunger on it that trip the switch trough a hole in the cabinet top.  This style will plug in at the rear center under the console.  Now we need to remove the cabinet mounting clips, these clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame.  To remove them insert you screw driver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.  Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed the mounting clips.  Grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid.  Tilt the cabinet to away from the back of the panel.  The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame, so pull it slightly forward.   Now you will be able to better see and access the internal workings of your washer, and better diagnose the problem you are experiencing.  If you are tying to solve a leaking problem first look for any ruptured hoses; or ones that have been nibbled on by rodents, also take a look at the pump these are common causes of leaking.  We will begin by removing the agitator.  You are going to need to remove the top of the agitator.  This model has only a cap; however, some models have a fabric softener dispenser. They remove the same way; grasp the side of the cap and pull strait up.  Once you have removed the cap you may see a seal.  This barrier protects the dog assembly from fabric softener gumming up the system and keeping the dogs from moving in and our easily.  The shaft that the comes through the bottom of the outer tub drives the base of the agitator in the counter clockwise motion, because of the dogs the top moves with it; however,  during the pause portion of the stroke the dogs retract in and allow the agitator top to move freely clockwise.  
Not very common but on some Kenmore brand whirlpool built washers; they have used this ½ inch socket nut, instead of the 7/16 inch nut used on most machines, to attach the agitator to the drive shaft, in order to remove this nut, insert a ½ socket driver into it and rotate counter clockwise. This model will not have the seal because it dose not have the fabric softer dispenser as an option. 
 On most models you will need a 7/16 inch socket driver and some form of an extension.  Hold the base of the agitator to keep it from turning and rotate the bolt counterclockwise.  The extension is necessary. Because as you can see the bolt is deep in the agitator and you will need to have your hands above it to be able to break the bolt loose.  You may find a ratchet helpful.  Once you have removed that 7/16” bolt you will need to reach down inside the tub, grab the lower plate of the agitator and pull strait up off of the drive shaft.  You might find it helpful to wiggle it slightly from side to side as you pull.  
To remove tub ring press down on each of the side clips and pull.  There is a seal on the inside of this ring to keep splashing and small amounts of water within the outer tub.  This is called a spanner wrench and is necessary if you are going to replace the inner tub or any part of the main drive system. A spanner wrench is the one specialty tool needed to repair this washer. There are four pins that insert down onto four notches in the spanner tub ring.  We use the wrench to grasp the tub nut and hammer in the counter clockwise direction to remove it.  Be carful not to hit the inner tub with your hammer or the porcelain coating may chip and allow rusting. Completely remove the spanner ring and remove the tub by lifting it off of the hub that the spanner ring was attached to.  If the tub is rusted to the hub press down quickly on the outer rim of the tub at several points to free it.  Be cautious not to break your fill spout while lifting the tub free.  It’s helpful to push back on the back panel with your elbow while you lift.  
The inner tub has a balance ring attached to the top that is filled with liquid to counter balance the tub in the case of an off balanced load.  A properly loaded tub needs to be at leased half full with similar items, If you try to spin one large towel you will have issues. The hub is the part that holds the inner tub to the drive tube.  Remove the hub from the drive tube by striking it from bellow.
Now from the bottom of the washer we will remove the transmission.  Remove the three half inch bolts that attach the transmission to the washer frame.  These machines have a lot of sharp edges so it’s a good idea to use some kind of extension to your ratchet to keep your hands out of harms way.  Remove the wire harness from the side mount by squeezing the back of the clip.  Now pull the transmission strait out from the drive tube.  If you are pulling strait it should slide out fairly easily.
Now let’s see the suspension system in action.  The tub rotates at 500 revolutions per minute, so if you are using this technique be sure you are clear of all moving parts.  When I release the lid switch the washer’s break will engage; the suspension springs that we will look at next, restrain the tub from pivoting to far and striking the inside of the cabinet.  These are the springs that are responsible for controlling the tubs lateral motion, and keeping the tub in a central position while allowing for some movement to absorb the tub’s energy.  These springs are made of spring steal and are highly unlikely to stretch out, more commonly they will snap in two peaces or become detached from their mounting points.
This is the rear suspension spring; it keeps the tub close to the rear frame and keeps it from tipping to far forward.  This is the more common issue that is experienced.  The spring will rarely break or stretch but it will tend to rust through the lower part of the frame and become detached.  If it is loose the tub will sit to far forward and can cause a leak during the fill.  The fill spout will miss the tub completely and dump water down the back of the washer.  Also during the spin the tub is more likely to become off balance.  In order to solve problem ether replace the spring; or in the case of it rusting through the frame, re drill a new hole next to the old one and reinstall the spring. 
In order to remove the outer tub and access the tub seal, you will need to remove all of the tub springs.  The springs are attached to the tub with a bar that stretches the springs to the proper tension.  To remove the springs; hold the end of the bar with your thumb keeping tension on the bar so it doesn’t fly off when you remove your 1/4” screw.  Once you have the screw out carefully allow the bar to lift out of the tub mounting plate.  The bar can be used for leverage to reinstall these.  This is a handy trick to be better able to access the rear spring bar.  Disconnect the pressure switch hose; and flip this tab at the base of the back panel, allowing the back of the washer to tip back and give you more room to work.  This is the rear tub spring we just talked about.  Once you have all of the springs detached, you can remove the outer tub.  This plate cradles the tub on three points of contact with these base pads, and should slide easily on top of the base pads mounted on the lower tripod frame. The three points of the slide plate triangle should line up with the three legs on the lower tripod.  The lower tripod frame supports the tub and all the washers’ major mechanics, any distortion to one of these main frame legs can cause weakness and vibration.  The tree base pads on the plate should make contact with the three flat sides of the tub support frame, and the connection hose to the pump needs to be facing the front of the washer.  With this system of two points of contact the base of the washer can move very well on both axes, much like a shoulder or hip joint. Now that we have the outer tub free; we simply flip it over, and pull the tub support frame out of the tub seal.  Most of the components that make up this washer have sharp edges; I highly recommend the use of gloves while you are working on the machine.   Gently rock the frame peace from side to side as you pull.  Now you are easily able to replace the tub seal. You will also want to examine the tube portion that makes contact with this seal and look for rust or pitting of the metal that may allow a new seal to leak.
Reinstall the tub and reattach all of your suspension springs.  To do this set the bar cleat into the first hole on the side of the spring and use the bars leverage to tension the spring.  Again pinch the end of the bar with your thumb and fore finger while you rethread the 1/4” screw into the tub support.  This is a little better view of how to stretch the tub springs.
The most common cause of an off balanced load is an unbalanced washer.  Whirlpool built washers have rear self leveling legs that should adjust to the slope of the floor when lifted, this with level and locked front legs will solve many balance issues.  Over time the rear legs can become bound up with rust this can usually be corrected by simply striking the legs upward with a hammer; breaking any rust free, also lubricate with some house hold oil or spray.
   Now let’s learn how to reinstall the cabinet.  The front of the cabinet slides under the front frame of the washer, there is a small step down to the side frame so the side cabinet can set on these pins.  There are four pins on the frame, two in the front and two in the rear.  Slide the front of the cabinet under the frame completely; it helps to give it a little kick to make sure it is all the way under the frame.  Tip the cabinet back, you may need to squeeze the back sides of the cabinet inward to insure that the rear frame pins insert into the rear cabinet holes.  It is also very important that the small hose that attaches to the pressure switch is not being kinked by the cabinet or you may get an overflowing washer.   Reattach you cabinet clips by inserting them into the washer back panel and pushing them down with the palm of your hand.  Make sure you remember to plug in your lid switch.  Tip the console back into place.  If you removed screws at this point make sure your console is slid as far back as it can go so the holes line up.  If you have the clip style just press down until you hear the clip snap into place. If you removed screws reinstall them.  Congratulations! You’re done.